Church facade © Tom Smith

Castle of the Calatayud © Tom Smith

POSTMARK:CALATAYUD

WHeRe to stAY
There are a number of
good to excellent hotels in
Calatayud.
I particularly liked the castillo
de Ayud II, with its restored
Victoria “guest house” adja-
cent to the new über-deluxe
main building that features
excellent dining, spa, fitness,
wifi, and business facilities.
For more traditional digs
try the Husa Monasterio
Benedictino, which offers a
range of modern convenienc-
es in an historical setting.

By Mark Vaughan

Having spent six years in Spain during the 1970s, any excuse to return to the land of sun and shade is a good one. So, when the opportunity arose to visit the vineyards of Calatayud, a wine growing region and commercial center that I had not visited before, I jumped at the chance.

Located in semi-autonomous region of Aragón, about 60 miles southwest of Zaragoza, the Calatayud DO is part of the Ebro Valley region, best known for Rioja. Nestle in the arid, windswept food hills of the Ibérico mountain system (Sistema Ibérico?), the climate (hot, dry summers and cold winters) is excellent for cultivating full-bodied, flavored red wines.

Most of the best grapes in Calatayud come from vineyards planted as high as 3,700 feet above sea level in soil so rocky with limestone and shale that it is difficult to understand how anything grows there. The starkly beautiful, desert-like landscape is nearly devoid of trees. Though 11 different red varietals grow in the DO, the indigenous Granacha Tinta (Grenache) dominates, followed by Tempranillo, and small but increasing plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.

Highlights of my trip included a visit to the town of Calatayud, a wine tasting at Bodegas San Alejandro and a tasting and vineyard tour with Norrel Robertson, a Scottish master of wine and winery consultant who has a passion for the area.

Founded by the Romans, Calatayud (Qal`at 'Ayy b or Ayyub's fort) takes its name from the impressive medieval Moorish fortress that dominates the town. From the fortress, one has an amazing view of the old town below, with its narrow streets and impressive stone and whitewashed buildings, which blend Moorish, Gothic, and Renaissance architectural elements. Beyond the old city, modern buildings rise against the stark, hilly landscape.

The Moors dominated the region for nearly 500 years, but by the 12th century, Calatayud was firmly under

Hotel castillo de Ayud II

Avenida de la Diputación

Christian control. It was Aragon’s own King Ferdinand
8, Calatayud 50300.
Zaragoza
II (and his wife, Queen Isabella I of Castile) who finally
Tel: 976 88 00 88
expelled the last of the Moors from Spain in 1492. /976 89 74 63
Ferdinand, an ardent Catholic, encouraged the build-
www.hotelcastillodeayud.
com
ing of many churches, including Calatayud’s beautiful
Church of Santa María, which boasts one of the most WHeRe to eAt
elegant Moorish-style bell towers in all of Spain. ^{For dining, the restaurant}
at the castillo de Ayud II
Bodegas San Alejandro, located nearby in the small
prepares excellent contempo-
hillside town of Miedes, has an interesting story of rary Spanish dishes.
its own. Founded as a cooperative in 1962, its 350 Another good choice is el
Patio de Goya at the el
growers cultivate over 2,700 acres of grapes. Over the
Patio hotel, www.hotelelpa-
past decade, San Alejandro has undergone a major _{tio.es, where head chef José}
transformation, updating its production facilities, taking carlos Martín offers award
a more direct approach to vineyard management, and
winning Aragonese cuisine
(for simpler fare, try Asador
focusing on quality over quantity. Under the leadership
san Ramón).
of Yolanda Díaz, the beautiful and energetic managing
director, who is one of the few women in Spain to head
For more information visit
www.docalatayud.com and
a major wine company, San Alejandro has gained inter-
www.espavino.com/spain_
national recognition for its brands. Notable examples wine_region/wines_calata-
include the Baltasar Gracián Reserva (70% Garnacha,
yud.php

20% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon), Baltasar

About the author:

Gracián Calatayud Superior (100% Garnacha), and the Mark Vaughan is editor and

Las Rocas Old Vine Garnacha.
publisher of Santé, The Mag-
azine of Wine and Spirits

Like Yolanda Díaz, Norrel “The Flying Scotsman”

Management, a publication

Robertson brims with enthusiasm for Calatayud. His per- dedicated to increasing on- sonal tour of the region took us up hill and down dale, to ^{premise sales of wines and} spirits by providing informa-

some of the most remot and starkly beautiful vineyards I
tion and management advice

have visited. At nearly 4,000 feet, we came to the edge pertinent to operating a suc- of the vineyard line, beyond which grape vines simply ^{cessful beverage program.} won’t grow. Robertson personally directs the production of his own wine brands, which bear such unorthodox names as La Multa (the traffic ticket), Papa Luna (daddy moon), and El Puño (the fist). His wines are full-bodied and flavorful Garnacha and Garnacha-based blends with Syrah, Monastrell, and Tempranillo. Prices ranging from $12 to $50, make Robertson’s wines (like many from Calatayud) terrific values.

Vineyard © CRDO Calatayud

CRDO Calatayud