Production of these wines is extremely limited, and respectively). The steep vineyards and difficult
prices continue to climb, as more serious wine lovers growing conditions of Ribeira Sacra are similar to
are discovering the joys of Mencía, and the wines of those of Priorato. If that is too steep for you, check
Bierzo. Other fantastic bodegas include Dominio de out the Peza do Rei Mencía, which is still a steal,
Tares (I adore the Bembibre and the rare Pago Tres) or the newly released Finca Míllara.
and Casar de Burbia (Tebaida is a drink for the soul, The producers of D.O. Ribeiro, on the Río
only made in great vintages), both of which, in addi- Miño, with a rich history of winemaking dating
tion to these mentioned brilliant wines on the high end, back centuries, and D.O. Monterrei, with its
offer very affordable value alternatives in a fresh, easy mere handful of wineries, both better known as
drinking style. Also watch for recent vintages of Castro white wine destinations, are so eager to show
Ventosa Valtuille, and Tilenus Pagos de Posada. us how far they have come with their red wines,
Lest you should think they are all very expensive (as it is almost as if the beautiful white wines by
in Priorato, limited production combined with media which they have carved out their reputations are
attention creates instant supply and demand) some an afterthought. Even in D.O. Rías Baixas during
great value alternatives from Bierzo are: Pétalos from my last visit, we tasted illicit red wines of Mencía
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Casar de Burbia, Baltos grapes, at least two of which were outstanding.
from Dominio de Tares, and Pazo de Arribi from From D.O. Ribeiro, you might try Viña Reboreda
Bodegas Adriá. Mencía from Bodegas Campante (or continue to
The best Mencía wines are extremely supple, and enjoy Ribeiro’s stunning and under-valued white
show great restraint, enhancing the minerality, and wines!). From D.O. Monterrei, try Bodegas
exhibiting finesse and elegance. With a judicious oak Ladairo.
treatment, they become ultimate wines of place, an Unfortunately, Mencíaisoften mistakenly blend-
embodiment of the terroir. Is there still the danger of ed with other grapes, particularly Garnacha
over-extraction, over-oaking, over-the-top alcohol... of Tintorera, Garnacha Tinta (Alicante), Tempranillo,
creating an international style of wine? Of course that Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and María Ardoña
danger is always there, yet even with big ripe fruit, (a black grape local to Valdeorras). I believe
these wines truly dictate a more restrained course of that Mencía can lose its appeal, its freshness,
winemaking, or, shall we say, less human influence. all of the lovely fruit and floral tones that make it
Mencía grown in the greatest vineyard sites of Bierzo special, when blended with these other grapes,
is one perfect example of great wine being made in especially with Merlot, which instead of softening
the vineyard, and great vineyard sites making truly the wine, makes it less balanced and too flat,
great wine. or with Cabernet Sauvignon, added of course
Although the D.O. Bierzo is finally getting the rec- for structure, which only hardens Mencía and
ognition it deserves, Mencía actually is the red wine makes the resulting wines too firm and tannic.
grape of choice of most of Galicia, in Northwestern Of course, that is only my opinion, and the
Spain, as well, and it surely has turned heads in recent Garnacha blends have existed much longer than
years as quality red wine production in this area has I, so perhaps I am just a purist who adores his
blossomed. D.O. Bierzo had only 20 wineries in pure Mencía!
2000, but today there are over 50. As we venture I will of course continue to enjoy a fine bottle
west from Castilla y León and cross the eastern bor- from Montsant or Priorato, a taste of Toro or
der of Galicia, we follow the Río Sil into the D.O. Ribera del Duero, a gulp here and there of just
Valdeorras, a region becoming increasingly well- about any D.O. of Spain, and a sip or two of
known for its white Godello wines. (Álvaro’s younger Sherry before and after my meal. As I continue to
brother Rafael is doing ground-breaking work here with watch and admire the renaissance of winemak-
his As Sortes project.) Yet the red wines should really ing, excuse me, winegrowing, throughout Spain,
get more attention than they do. I have only tasted a I am most impressed by the sensibility of the
few of note, but the varietally-labeled Mencía wine wines. I learned long ago that wine belongs on
of Casal Novo from Adega O Casal (in Galicia, an the table, with food, and the wines from Spain
adega is a bodega, or winery), has to be one of the seem to have a built-in affinity for food, a natural
best red wine values of this year, delicious in a fresh, synchronicity, to taste good with food. If this is
very drinkable style that still exhibits all of the lovely something you have yet to experience, or like
varietal characteristics that I have now begun to crave. me, you just cannot get enough good food and
And by the way, while we are in Valdeorras, Casal wine, then my suggestion is that you slide on into
Novo’s Godello is mind-blowing too. your kitchen with a bottle of Mencía and witness
In D.O. Ribeira Sacra, Mencía, among other grapes, as it unfolds layer upon layer of intoxicating com-
is planted on 2000-year-old Roman terraces ascending plexity...until it has overtaken your senses with
the steepest slopes, in one of the most remote wine complete delight. Then? Cook whatever you are
regions in the world, and great things are happening. inspired to eat. I promise, whatever you choose,
Since there is now even a paved road coming out of the match, the pairing, the combination of the
there, we may actually, finally, be able to taste some of wine and the food, will not disappoint.
these amazing wines on our shores. Seek out a bottle This grape, Mencía, grown in these condi-
of the 250 cases of Dominio de Bibei Lacima, crafted tions, in these places, and tended lovingly by
by Sara Pérez and her life and business partner (and these people, yearns to be consumed with food,
father of her children), René Barbier, Jr, both of D.O.Ca. and as such, may be the most versatile wine in
Priorato fame (Clos Martinet and Clos Mogador, your cellar, oronyour winelist.

Bierzo's vineyards © Juan Manuel Sanz (ICEX).

tHe MYsteRY oF MencÍA

So what, pray tell, is this magical grape, Mencía? Is it Cabernet Franc, as many would have you believe? No, for DNA fingerprinting has definitely proven that it is not Cabernet Franc, although some would argue that they have certain similarities. In fact, Mencía may even be the progenitor of Cabernet Franc (the same grape in Portugal is called Jaen), and it has probably been planted in this area since the Romans were encamped here centuries ago. According to Óscar Alegre of Palacios, at least nine different clones have been isolated in a mere one acre plot, (which is an entire Bierzo vineyard for the Corullón project!), which would indicate hundreds of years of vineyard development.

To me, what is important is not from whence Mencía came, but what it has become, or rather what it can be in the right hands. When working with old vines, grown in slate/schist soils, on very steep slopes, at high altitudes, harvested at low yields, in a relatively cool climate, Mencía is capable of producing deep, dark, beautiful wines with good acidity, exotic wildflower floral tones, red, black and blue fruits, and soft, round tannins. In these conditions, in this type of climate, this grape can reach amazing complexity at lower alcohol levels, while still reaching complete phenolic ripeness, which yields sweet, ripe tannins, and yet has a perfect balance of acidity at moderate alcohol (imagine its versatility for food, and the potential to age!)

Harvest, © Nacho Gómez (CRDO Ribeira Sacra).