eLsAcAcoRcHos (SMALL SIPS OF BIG NEWS)

copa Jerez 2009 spain shines at Madrid Fusión 2009

They say that confession is good for the soul, so here goes: Although Highlighting Spain’s global I have been a lover of Sherry for many years, I have been guilty of gastronomic influence, culinary under-estimating how wonderful it can be as a partner for different luminaries and professionals foods. This discovery came to me during the course of a wonderful convened on the Palacio Municipal opportunity earlier this year. I served as a judge for the 3 annual de Congresos in Madrid on January rd

copa Jerez, an international event pitting seven teams of chefs and 19 – 22 for Madrid Fusión 2009. sommeliers in competition to achieve the best matches between three The 7 year of this event was a th

Roger Kugler and Seamus Mullen at work at the Copa Jerez.

courses and different types of Sherry. stellar success as famous chefs such This remarkable event, staged in Jerez de Frontera in January, as Ferran Adrià (of Spain’s el Bullì restaurant), Grant Achatz (Alinea was actually the culmination of an elaborate, two year-long process in Chicago), and David chang (New York’s Momofuku) wowed of national semi-final competitions conducted in Belgium, Denmark, the crowd. More than 20 presentations a day – including topics as Germany, the Netherlands, Spain, the United Kingdom, and the light-hearted as Play Food (using humor and imagination in cuisine) to United States. In January, the winning teams from each country pre- serious debates about the kitchen of the future – offered attendees a pared and presented three pairings at the Jerez Hotel and Restaurant chance to select from a wide range of informative demonstrations. school: A dish paired with a dry sherry under flor, a beneficial yeast After arriving directly from the airport, I began a whirlwind three-day that forms on the surface of the wine inside the barrel, (either a Fino tour in true Spanish fashion by nibbling Jamón ibérico and sipping or Manzanilla), a second dish with a Sherry that was likewise dry but Rueda wine upon entering the conference center. I then joined a group also the product of oxidative aging (either Amontillado, Oloroso or of international judges to determine winners of the competition “Best Palo Cortado), and finally a dish paired with a semi-sweet or sweet Spanish Wines Under 30 Euros” organized by the spanish sommelier Sherry (either a Medium, Cream, Pale Cream, Sweet Oloroso, Pedro Union. Ximénez or Moscatel). Madrid Fusión ‘09 included a significant focus on wine as IceX The results were as remarkable for the sheer diversity of successful presented five tastings showcasing top regions and producers in their pairings as for their excellence. For the first course, working with Fino program, Wines from spain in Madrid Fusión. These daily tastings or Manzanilla, all seven of the national teams chose to pair the wines were kicked off with a session dubbed Innovative Spain: Ancient with a seafood dish. The other ingredients varied: smoked peppers, Vineyards, New Wines, where cutting-edge wineries from Mallorca horseradish, caviar, marinated miso, pork jowl, soy vinaigrette, pata to Bierzo poured their best. Another session hosted by the regulatory negra ham, black pudding, and Chanterelle mushrooms. Thanks to council of Rías Baixas focused on 15 Albariños, some dating to the skillful selection by the sommeliers but also the intrinsic properties of the 2002 vintage, to assess the variety’s ageability. The council of Ribera Sherries, the wines managed to work with all of the aromas, flavors del Duero hosted an impressive tasting, which matched classics with and textures incorporated in these ingredients. We were off to a good upcoming stars, and the region of Rioja presented an engaging and start at the end of the first course, but I had yet to undergo anything like timely session on Smart Buys. One of the most interesting lineups was a conversion experience. After all, Sherries are famous for being terrific the Grandes Pagos de España. This event presented wines of the newly-aperitifs, so it did not seem like a huge stretch to use them successfully created Vinos de Pago Denomination of origin, which celebrates the as accompaniments for light starter courses. However, success with creation of estate wines with unique personalities. weightier foods appropriate for a main course seemed like a much With three floors of exhibits, meeting spaces, and amphitheatres, riskier proposition. thousands lined up to taste, talk and see the latest in food and wine. The second course provided one revelation after another, with Mouthwatering pork products from spicy chorizo to silky lomo vied for Sherries showing beautifully alongside poached eggs with artichokes, attention with pimentón stands and chocolate purveyors. I experienced glazed veal sweetbreads, lamb with smoked aubergine, toasted an extensive Spanish olive oil tasting, an aged Jerez vinegar tasting, rouguet with ham, spare ribs with melon, and venison with beans and sipped Peruvian Pisco in the spacious Peru exhibit. and potatoes. I found it very impressive that the different wines could Madrid Fusión’s special guest country this year was Mexico, whose muster enough depth of flavor and breadth of texture to complement pavilion covered an entire corner of the exhibit hall. Tequila flowed the dishes. freely as five visiting chefs including Patricia Quintana, the maven of By the dessert course, I confess that I was more a disciple than a Mexican cuisine, educated and entertained. critic. The task was tough, as two renditions of Pedro Ximénez, three The hot ticket, however, was for the session entitled “Existe La Cream Sherries and two crafted from Moscatel were all delicious Cocina Molecular?” with a panel comprised of Ferran Adrià, Heston with the desserts. The Danish team of Jakob Meilcke Hansen and Blumenthal of England’s Fat Duck, and American author Harold Rune elkjaer were voted the copa Jerez overall champions, but the McGee, among others. Their discussion centered on the present and USA was represented in excellent fashion by chef seamus Mullen future of molecular gastronomy. After a lively discussion, the panel and sommelier Roger Kugler, from new York’s Boqueria, suba, concluded that modern technology doesn’t take the passion out of and Boqueria soho. Kugler was voted the copa’s Best sommelier. food. On the contrary, it allows the passion to be more fully expressed.

The wines selected for Roger were González- As Blumenthal said, “Food is food. You have good food and bad food, Byass tío Pepe Fino (1st course), Hidalgo it’s as simple as that.”

Amontillado Viejo VoRs (30 years) (2nd Evening events ranged from a gathering at the casino de Madrid course), and the Gutiérrez colosía Moscatel hosted by Rioja’s Marqués de Riscal to casual dinners. A favorite soleado (3rd course). I doubt that anyone experience was dinner at one of Madrid’s trendiest eateries, senzone. involved walked away with anything more Chef and Madrid Fusión speaker, Paco Morales, along with his prized than what I left with, namely, a new sommelier wife, Rut cotroneo, prepared a 10-course tasting menu for awareness of Sherry’s amazing powers as a us paired with sumptuous Spanish wines. After a meal like that, it’s easy partner for high-end foods. Michael Franz to see why Spain is a culinary mecca. Leslie Sbrocco

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