for several different wineries in Rías Baixas, including quips, “People have drunk their Albariño, and now want Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes, Pazo San Mauro to know what Godello is. They enjoy the fresh and crisp and Maior de Mendoza. She says, “A new trend I see acidity of these wines, that overall have a lot of clout on emerging is the idea that you can drink the wines of Rías the market for value. I also think the reds of Galicia are Baixas after two to three years of aging in the bottle.” fantastic, albeit expensive due to difficult growing condi-

Elevage (maturing) in oak is not quite de rigueur in tions and minimal hectares, but they should be explored, Rías Baixas but winemakers are increasingly experi- especially in the warmer months of the year when the menting with wood. Says Granback, “There is some juicy fruits and great acidity pair best with spring and interesting stuff going on with aging regimes and barrel summer foods.” treatments out there. I’m curious to see if these styles will In addition to Albariño, Forja del Salnés makes two find acceptance in the market.” reds, which José Pastor imports. He offers this view: “I

Casa Mono, a small plates Spanish restaurant in see a great future in Rías Baixas for its red varietals such New York City, carries fourteen different Albariño as Caiño Tinto and Loureiro Tinto, which are starting wines, a few of which see oak. Wine director Lydia to yield wines with tons of finesse and delicacy. Caiño Tillman shares that “A couple of them do well in oak. is a more delicate grape, with softer skins, which pro-Zarate Albariño is a good example. It’s a bigger wine motes wines with less color and with beautiful spice and but has good fruit and stands up to dishes like guinea peppery notes, elegant and delicate, very Pinot-like in hen, chicken or even pork. Forja de Salnés also does a texture. On the other hand, the Loureiro grape tends to barrica Albariño and it’s really gorgeous.” be more wild, it has thicker skins and yields very inky-

Extensive contact and stirring on the lees gives the purple like wines in terms of color but it boasts beautiful wine more body and complexity. José Pastor imports the complex aromas, such as meat, earth, dry flowers and wines of O Aforado, a producer making an Albariño tons of mineral. It is very high in natural acidity and low that is aged for twelve months in tank with the lees. in alcohol at around twelve percent.”

Pastor explains, “Albariño is a very sensitive grape and Tillman showcases both red wines on her list. She with few exceptions it doesn’t do very well when raised notes that “They are both extremely food friendly in oak as the oak tends to dominate and mask the because of their really nice acidity.” grape. Aging the wines on its lees is a great alternative Gastronomes are spoiled with scrumptious seafood to gain more texture and complexity in the wines, while in Galicia. The Atlantic coast provides a medley of preserving its true origin.” crustaceans and mollusks and, when paired with the One of the most memorable visions of wine country local wine, it makes for a hedonistic experience. in Rías Baixas is that of the vineyards. Vines are mostly Stateside, a vivacious Albariño or a lively Godello trained high in the pergola style (known locally as with a seafood dish can’t be beat, but some restau- emparrado or parra), forming a leafy roof canopy. It rants are playing with less conventional pairings. Alex is a beautiful and peculiar sight to behold just before Ong is the chef and managing partner at Betelnut harvest when clusters of grapes hang overhead as Restaurant, a San Francisco-based eatery featur-you walk through vineyards. Having said that, it is a ing small plates from all over Asia. Ong offers six tradition that may be better suited for the Salnés sub- Albariño wines on the restaurant list. He says, “The zone. Jorge Peláez, proprietor of winery Marqués de mineral, acid and fruit in Albariño complement the Vizhoja, in the Condado do Tea subzone, says: “We spice and heat in Asian cuisine, bringing out layer prefer espaldera (vertical shoot positioning) because upon layer of flavor. It is simply delicious.” Giving the grapes are better aerated and receive more us an example of the flavorful interplay between sunlight, and there’s less humidity, making the vines Albariño and spicy repast, he says, “Babi Guling is more resistant to mildew. And planting and harvesting a Balinese roast suckling pig dish. The acidity and is easier because the vines are not as high as with citrus notes in the wine bring out the flavor of the ulam pergola-training.” [aromatic herbs and spices] and pairs well with the The region’s other grape varieties are catching on as moist and tender meat.” well. Several winemakers have a soft spot for the lesser- Robert Wellbeloved works with Alex Ong known varieties, Cristina Mantilla included. “I am a as managing partner and general manager traditional defender of other grapes in Rías Baixas such at Betelnut. He says that despite the rise in cost of as Loureiro, Godello and Caiño, and I love blends, but European wines across the board, many Albariños the majority of the wineries here bet on mono-varietal offer wine drinkers a bang for their buck. He shares, Albariño,” she explains. “I think all of our producers are providing value-driven O Rosal, the southernmost sub-zone of Rías Baixas wine. Our Albariños are around the fifteen-dollar mark. grows a lot of the region’s lesser-known grapes. Eighty I love to recommend the Licia Albariño. It is a cuvee percent of Terras Gauda’s wine production (a winery that showcases yellow and green apple fruit character-situated in O Rosal) consists of a popular white wine istics, as well as a pleasing mineral and a fresh lemon blend. Emilio Rodríguez, the winemaker for Terras finish. Another popular producer is Don Olegario.” Gauda says, “We focus on expressing the authentic- From Iberian shores to the US market, the origin of ity and singularity of our region. We could not forget these wines makes them so distinct. Tamers puts it this that the ancient tradition of O Rosal was to make way: “Galicia is magical. It is a land influenced by wines with other local grapes, as well as Albariño. the ocean and by thousands of years of Celtic and We believe that Loureira and Caiño Blanco improve Roman culture where myths are still somehow relevant. the performance of Albariño and make a nicer, more There is something transcendent about the combination complex wine.” of seafood and Galician whites that will bring tears to Kerin Auth is an advocate for Godello and more. She your eyes.”

Caiño Blanco plantings at Terras Gauda

cURIoUs FoR MoRe?

Visit www.riasbaixawines. com for information about the region, grape varieties and the fine wines produced there. Also learn about many of the wineries that are on the forefront of the industry in this beautiful area of Galicia in Northwestern Spain.

Then check out some recipes for dishes that complement the wines of Rías Baixas and you might event want to try your hand at blogging our site!

Rías Baixas is hosting a contest again this year for the best recipe to go with Rías Baixas wines. Visit www.riasbaixaswines. com/recipes/contest/in-dex.php to learn more about entering their 4th annual recipe contest.

Winnings include a grand prize trip to the People’s Choice Awards in Los Angeles!

Courtesy of Tourist Office of Spain.

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